Chef Bertrand Chemel of 2941 Restaurant expanded his culinary reach in Falls Church this year by stepping in to helm the kitchen at Pizzeria Orso—a family friendly Italian eatery that wows even in a casual setting. His 2941 Restaurant colleagues, Jonathan Schuyler and Caitlin Dysart, injected the drink and dessert menus, respectively, with new life. Bertrand may be a French chef, but his background cooking with the acclaimed Andrew Carmellini in New York gave him a pedigree in pasta, like these playful corn ravioli with bacon, cherry tomatoes and parsley. But what about pizza?

Bertrand, whom we snapped in his dough room, is working towards getting Pizzeria Orso’s pizza program VPN certified, which means to be deemed “Vera Pizza Napoletana” by an association that monitors the authenticity of Neapolitan pies. Bertrand recently returned from Los Angeles, where he took classes to help the restaurant achieve this stamp of authenticity. The courses can be as intense as college, with theory, workshops, practical periods, written exams and internships. “I will not give up,” Bertrand says of his quest, though, we’re not sure diners will have time to appreciate the merit before they’ve inhaled their gourmet pizzas.