Charcuterie was one of the biggest trends in 2014, as restaurants expanded their offerings and chefs got exceedingly creative. Take Nathan Anda, for example. The Partisan chef is the guy you’re looking for if you want to graduate from pepperoni and prosciutto. We asked him to explain some of his current offerings from tame to just a little crazy. “My thing with charcuterie is that you have to have an open mind, and don’t be afraid to ask questions,” he tells us. We snapped him with his partner in crime, Chef Ed Witt.
Coppa: Cured neck meat that’s perfectly marbled with fat and rubbed with cayenne pepper, fennel and black pepper.
Mortadella: An emulsified offering that looks and tastes like Bologna. But don’t balk at Bologna. “Open yourself up to trying it again, it’s not Oscar Mayer.” His foie gras black truffle Bologna is definitely NOT school lunch material.
Lardo: “We cure pure unadulterated fat with salt, pepper and herbs in containers that we stack like Tetris blocks and leave for 12 months.” Protecting lardo in tinfoil keeps it ivory white. Once ready, he wraps a paper-thin slice around bread and fries it in olive oil.
Rillette: A fatty, smooth concoction made from braising meat in its own fat. The fat is separated out and later emulsified back in, creating the unmistakably unique texture. Nathan says duck, geese and pork are perfect candidates.
Heartechino: You’ve never seen this before because Nathan invented it. It’s a play on an Italian cured meat called Cotechino that utilizes pork shoulder and crispy skin. Nathan ups the ante by swapping the shoulder for pig heart. He seasons it with baking spices and Thai chilies for a little heat.
